Saturday, December 24, 2011

Second attempt at curling Barbie's hair

I know, I know, this is not a crocheted dress, but since I am doing these dolls as Christmas gifts and this is a blog for Barbie, I thought I would share the results.  I am really pleased with the outcome of this Barbie's hair even though it is a little TOO curly.  I am getting better at rolling her hair.  I actually taped down the ends of her hair this time and the ends turn out so much better.  I have thought of an even better way to do it next time, though.  The one thing I would have done better this time is taking my time when separating the curls, re-curling them with my finger so there would be a little less frizz, but all in all it turned out great. 
Please excuse the nakedness of the Barbie....lol


Friday, December 23, 2011

curling Barbie's hair

Here is my first attempt at curling Barbie's hair with straws.  It turned out pretty good I think.  Next time I want to use a doll with much longer hair so it will have pretty, long ringlets.  Something else I will do is use some perm papers to hold  Barbie's hair in place at the ends.  The ends turned out a little ugly this time, but all in all, I am happy with it.  I know it has been a long time since my last post, but making my Christmas gifts is taking up all my time.  I will have a new dress out next week sometime after I can get Christmas behind me.

Sunday, November 20, 2011

"Ribbons and Bows" Christmas Barbie dress and bow wristlet/clutch

Well, here is my second holiday dress out of the three that I plan to make.  It is a little racy and shows some "skin" but I like the effect. Whereas the last dress is pretty simple to make, this one is the opposite.  It is a little complicated because there is a lot of shaping and I wanted to do something a little nicer to look at than a simple sc pattern which would have been a lot easier,  but I think it was worth it.

                                                                           


Materials

Size 10 thread in red
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
about 18" of 3/8" red ribbon
3 ribbon roses
4 sew on snaps
little tiny bit of fiberfill

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Skirt

Row 1:  Starting at hips, with red, ch 41, sc in back ridge of 2nd ch from hook (to prevent holes when working in opposite side of ch later) and in each ch across, turn.  (40 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, [sc in first (next) 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 8 times, turn.  (48 sc)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first st, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 4 times, ch 8, sk next 7 sts, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 8 times, sc in same st as last dc made, ch 8, sk next 7 sts, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 4 times, turn.  (35 sts, 16 chs)

Row 4:  Ch 1, sc in first 9 sts, ch 8, sc in next 17 sts, ch 8, sc in last 9 sts, turn.  (35 sts, 16 chs)

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc in first st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 8, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 8, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 4 times, turn.  (35 sts, 16 chs)

Row 6:  Repeat row 4.

Row 7:  Ch 1, sc in first st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 4 times, turn.  (35 sts, 12 chs, 2 sl sts)

Rows 8-11:  Repeat rows 4 and 5 two more times.

Row 12:  Ch 1, sc in first 9 sts, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in next 17 sts, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in last 9 sts, turn.  (35 sts, 12 chs, 2 sl sts)

Rows 13-16:  Repeat rows 5 and 4 (in that order) two more times.

Row 17:  Repeat row 7.

Row 18:  Ch 1, sc in first 9 sts, ch 7, sc in next 17 sts, ch 7, sc in last 9 sts, turn.  (35 sts, 14 chs)

Row 19:  Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch across, turn.  (49 sc)

Row 20:  Ch 6 (counts as first tr and ch 2), sk next 2 sts, [tr in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts] 15 times, tr in last st, turn.  (16 ch 2 sps)

Row 21:  Ch 1, 2 sc in each ch 2 sp and in each tr across, sc in 4th ch of beg ch 6, DO NOT TURN.  (48 sc)

Now working along first back seam edge, ch 1, 3 sc in side of tr, 20 sc evenly spaced in ends of rows up to waist, fasten off.

Now working along second back seam edge, join red with sc in side of tr of row 20, 2 sc in same sp, 20 sc evenly spaced in ends of rows up to waist, turn, ch 1, sl st in first 8 sts (back opening), holding back seam edges tog and carefully matching up sts, sc seam tog, turn skirt right side out without fastening off.

Row 22:  Ch 4 (counts as first tr), tr in first st, 2 tr in each st around, join to beg ch 4.  Fasten off.  (96 tr)

Top

Row 1:  Now starting on opposite side of row 1, join red with sc in first st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, ch 7, sk next 6 sts, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 3 times, sc dec over next 2 sts, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, ch 7, sk next 6 sts, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, turn.  (27 sts, 14 chs)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first 7 sts, ch 7, sc in next 13 sts, ch 7, sc in last 7 sts, turn.  (27 sts, 14 chs)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, ch 7, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times, ch 7, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, turn.  (27 sts, 14 chs)

Row 4:  Repeat row 2.

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc in first st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, turn.  (27 sts, 12 chs, 2 sl sts)

Rows 6-9:  Repeat rows 2 and 3 two more times.

Row 10:  Ch 1, sc in first 7 sts, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 4 times, sc in next st, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in last 7 sts, turn.  (31 sts, 12 chs, 2 sl sts)

Row 11:  Ch 1, sc in first st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, ch 7 sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 7, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, turn.  (31 sts, 14 chs)

Row 12:  Ch 1, sc in first 7 sts, ch 7, sc in next 17 sts, ch 7, sc in last 7 sts, turn.  (31 sts, 14 chs)

Row 13-14:  Repeat rows 11 and 12 once more.

Row 15:  Ch 1, sc in first st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 3, sl st around 4 chs below, ch 3, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, turn.  (31 sts, 12 chs, 2 sl sts)

Row 16:  Repeat row 12.

Row 17:  Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch across, turn.  (45 sc)

Row 18:  Sl st in first 14 sts, sc in next st, [ch 2, sk next st, sc in next st] 8 times, turn.  (8 ch 2 sps)

Row 19:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, [ch 2, sc in next ch 2 sp] 7 times, turn.  (7 ch 2 sps)

Rows 20-23:  Repeat row 19 four more times.  At end of row 23 there will be 3 ch 2 sps.

Row 24:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, [ch 4, sc in next ch 2 sp] 2 times.  DO NOT TURN. (2 ch 4 sps)

Now working in ends of rows, ch 1, 10 sc evenly spaced down front to row 17 of back, 14 sc across to back opening, ch 1, work 25 sc evenly spaced in ends of rows down back opening, work 25 sc evenly spaced in ends of rows up other side of back opening, ch 1, 14 sc across other side of row 17, 10 sc evenly spaced in ends of rows up other side of front.  Fasten off.

Finishing

1.  Take 5 1/2" of ribbon and weave through row 20 of skirt.  Tack ends tog at back and cover seam with a ribbon rose.



2.  Take 8" of ribbon (or how long you want) and weave through row 24 of top and tie in a bow at back.  Tack to row 24 to avoid losing ribbon.  Another option (which I did) is to take only enough ribbon to weave through row 24 and meet at back, fold ends under and sew a snap at back of neck.  This is an ugly and bulky option though, but Barbie's hair covers it. 



3.  Sew 3 snaps evenly spaced down back opening.

Directions for Bow wristlet/clutch purse

Note:  Purse does not open.

Row 1:  Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.  (14 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, [sc in first (next) st, dc in next st] across, turn.  (14 sts)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (14 sc)

Rows 4-?:  Repeat rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 2" ending with row 3.  DO NOT TURN at end of last row.

Ch 1, 20 sc evenly spaced in ends of rows down side of piece, ch 1, sc in each ch across bottom of row 1, 20 sc evenly spaced in ends of rows up other side of piece, join.  Fasten off.

Fold piece in half and sew 3 open sides closed, stuffing lightly with fiberfill before closing.  Wrap thread around middle of purse to create bow shape.  Take a piece of ribbon long enough to wrap around middle of purse and create a loop to slip over doll's hand.  Tack in place.  Tack ribbon rose over ribbon where ribbon overlaps. 



Friday, November 4, 2011

"Winter Snow" Barbie dress and cape/wrap

This is my first attempt at designing a dress for Barbie.  I wanted to make it super-simple.  This meant no sewing seams, no working in the round if I could help it, no shaping, and weaving in as few ends as possible.  Pretty tall order, but I think I did it.  My plan is to make a total of three Holiday dresses, each with an accessory.  This first one is for the general winter holiday, the second one will be a red Christmas party dress and the third one will be a black New Year's Eve party dress (although working with black is a real pain so it might end up being silver or some other color).




Please keep the following in mind while crocheting this outfit.  This dress is worked in a flat, almost square piece.  This piece will SEEM to just barely meet behind the bust, be too big in the waist and too small in the hips, BUT the ribbing around the bust will have enough give to overlap for a snap and the pattern stitch (along with the edging and seaming) around the hips will have enough stretch to get the dress over the hips.  This still leaves the waist a little too big since Barbie's waist is ridiculously small compared to her hips! So, there are two options.  1.  You can sew the snap on in such a way that you pull the waist in a bit or  2.  You can gather the waist at the back like I did (I will give a step by step as to how I did that).
 

Materials

Size 10 thread in white
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
2 sew on snaps
1   9/16th" white button (or any size button you like)

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions for dress

Note:  The easiest way I found to sc evenly along a piece is to fold it in half and mark with a stitch marker, then fold the half in half again and mark the quarter sections with a stitch marker.  Take the amount of stitches needed and divide by 4.  Then make sure to crochet that amount in between each stitch marker.

V-stitch = (dc, ch 1, dc) in stitch indicated

Bust

Row 1:  With white, ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn.  (7 sc)

Row 2:  Working in BACK LOOPS only, sc in each st across, turn.  (7 sc)

Rows 3-?:  Repeat row 2 until piece measures 5" long.  DO NOT TURN at end of last row.

Working around edge of piece, ch 1, 44 sc evenly spaced along first long edge, ch 1, 7 sc across first short edge, ch 1, 44 sc evenly spaced along second long edge, leave remaining short edge unworked, turn.

Skirt

Row 1:  Ch 1, [sc in first (next) st, sk next st, v-stitch in next st, sk next st] across, turn.  (11 sc, 11 v-stitches)

Row 2:  Ch 1, [sc in first (next) ch 1 space of v-stitch, v-stitch in next sc] across, turn.  (11 sc, 11 v-stitches)

Rows 3-?:  Repeat row 2 until piece measures 4" total length, DO NOT TURN at end of last row

Working in ends of rows around edge of piece, ch 1, 2 sc in each v-stitch and sc in each sc up to ribbed bust, sc in each sc along ribbed bust, turn, ch 1, sc in each sc back down to bottom of dress working 3 ch in last st, working along bottom of dress, 2 sc in each v-stitch and sc in each sc across, working up other back, 3 sc in first st, 2 sc in each v-stitch and sc in each sc up to ribbed bust, sc in each sc along ribbed bust, turn, ch 1, sl st in first 20 sc (back opening), holding seams together sc rest of back seam tog, turn dress right side out, but DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

Ruffle section

Round 1:  Working in FRONT LOOPS only around bottom of dress, [sl st, ch 2] in each st around, join to first sl st, do not turn.

Round 2:  Working in BACK LOOPS of previous round, sl st in first back loop, ch 4 (counts as first tr), tr in each back loop around, join to top FRONT LOOP of beg ch 4, do not turn.

Round 3:  Ch 2, [sl st, ch 2] in each FRONT LOOP of st around, join to first sl st, do not turn.

Round 4:  Working in BACK LOOPS of previous round, sl st in first back loop, ch 4 (counts as first tr), tr in same st as joining, 2 tr in each st around, join to top of first ch 4.  Fasten off.  (Finally!!!  lol)

Finishing

Sew 2 snaps to back opening, sewing one snap to back of waist so that the waist gets pulled in.  If you don't like the look this creates (like I didn't), sew both snaps even with each other and gather waist in back.

I gathered waist as follows.  Sew snaps where you want them first.  Turn dress inside out and place on doll.   Starting at side of waist, take needle and thread and run thread in and out of rows almost up to back seam.  Gather lightly (not to tight or dress will not get over hips) and tie off.  Repeat for other side of waist.

Directions for Cape/Wrap

Row 1:  Ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.  (20 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, [sc in first (next) st, sk next st, v-stitch in next st, sk next st] across, turn.  (5 sc, 5 v-stitches)

Row 3:  Ch 1, [sc in first (next) ch 1 space of v-stitch, v-stitch in next sc] across, turn.  (5 sc, 5 v-stitches)

Rows 4-?:  Repeat row 3 until piece measures 6" long.

Working around edges, ch 1, 2 sc in each v-stitch and sc in each sc across first short edge, ch 1, 2 sc in each v-stitch and sc in each sc along first long edge, ch 1, sc in each sc along second short edge, ch 1, 2 sc in each v-stitch and sc in each sc along second long edge, ch 1, sc in each sc along first short edge AGAIN (this will make it even because the other short end has two rows of sc) to last st, ch 5 for buttonhole (or ch amount that will slip over your selected button), join to beg sc.  Fasten off.

Sew button opposite of buttonhole.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Candy Corn outfit (halter top)

Without further ado, the halter top to the candy corn outfit.


Materials

Size 10 thread in orange
Size 10 thread in white
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
2 sew on snaps

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Sc dec = Insert hook and draw up a loop in each of the next two stitches (three loops now on hook), hook yarn and draw through all three loops on the hook.

Row 1:  With orange, ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.  (10 sc)

Row 2:  Working in BACK LOOPS only, sc in each st across, turn.  (10 sc)

Rows 2-?:  Repeat row 2 until piece measures 4" long.  DO NOT fasten off.

NOTES:

1.  When working the following round, one long edge will have 14 more sc than the other long edge.  This is because the edge with more sc's will be the edge that fits around the doll under the bust where she is bigger.

2.  The easiest way I found to sc evenly along a piece is to fold it in half and mark with a stitch marker, then fold the half in half again and mark the quarter sections with a stitch marker.  Take the amount of stitches needed and divide by 4 (in this case, it will be about 8 sc and 12 sc).  Then make sure to crochet that amount in between each stitch marker.

Working around edges, ch 1, 34 sc evenly spaced along first long edge, 10 sc across first short edge, 48 sc evenly spaced across 2nd long edge, sc 10 along 2nd short edge, join to beg sc.  Fasten off. 

Row 1:  Join white with sc in first st of long edge that has 48 sc, sc in each st across, turn.  (48 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (48 sc)

Row 3:  (Left halter) Ch 1, sc in first 24 sts, leaving rem sts unworked, turn.  (24 sc)

Row 4:  Ch 1, sc in first 10 sts, leaving rem sts unworked, turn.  (10 sc)

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc dec over first 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, turn.   (8 sc)

Row 6:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (8 sc)

Row 7:  Ch 1, sc dec over first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, turn.  (6 sc)

Row 8:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (6 sc)

Row 9:  Ch 1, sc dec over first 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, turn.  (4 sc)

Row 10:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (4 sc)

Row 11:  Ch 1, sc dec over first 2 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, turn.  (2 sc)

Rows 12-21:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (2 sc)  Fasten off at end of row 21.

Row 3:  (Right halter):  Starting in first st on other side of row 2, join white with sc, sc in next 23 sts, turn.  (24 sc)

Rows 4-21:  Repeat rows 4-21 of left halter.

Starting at left edge of row 3, join white with sc, sc approximately 100 sts evenly spaced around top edge of halter.  The amount of sts isn't important.  Just sc enough sts to make the edge lay flat and have a finished look to it.

Finishing

Sew ends of straps together.  The halter should be able to slip over the dolls head. If it doesn't you can add more rows  to the straps or you can sew a snap to the straps.

Sew 2 snaps evenly spaced down back.

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Candy Corn outfit (skirt)

Here is my version of a Halloween outfit.  I didn't want to create a costume for two reasons.  One, I don't particularly care for Halloween and two, I like my outfits to be versatile.  So I decided on the candy corn outfit.  That way it can be a Halloween outfit or not just by changing the colors of the skirt and halter top.  I normally like to make my skirt/top sets to look like a dress when paired, but this time it didn't quite work out because I had to add a waistband to the skirt so it would fit right.  It interrupts the "dress" look, but not by much.  I might make a belt to cover the waistband to turn it into a belted dress.  I am also tinkering with the idea of making a purse in a candy corn shape.  It's hard to tell from the picture in the front, but the skirt comes to a v-shape in the back and an inverted v-shape in the front.  Also, I normally have my skirts sit right on the hip line, but this skirt sits at her waist line.




Materials

Size 10 thread in orange
Size 10 thread in yellow
Size 6 (1.8mm) steel hook
1 sew on snap

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Notes:  By design this skirt is worked flat from back seam to back seam and will not meet in the back by at least a half inch, but when the back seam is sewn it will be able to slip on doll.

Sc dec = Insert hook and draw up a loop in each of the next two stitches (three loops now on hook), hook yarn and draw through all three loops on the hook.

Row 1:  Starting at back seam, with orange, ch 46, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.  (45 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, working in BACK LOOPS only, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, turn.  (44 sc)

Row 3:  Ch 1, working in BACK LOOPS only, sc in each st across, turn.  (44 sc)

Rows 4-25:   Repeat rows 2 and 3 alternately.  There will be 33 sc at end of row 25.

Row 26:  Ch 1, working in BACK LOOPS only, sc in each st aross to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn.  (34 sc)

Row 27:  Ch 1, working in BACK LOOPS only, sc in each st across, turn.  (34 sc)

Rows 28-49:  Repeat rows 26 and 27 alternately.  There will be 45 sc at end of row 49.  DO NOT TURN at end of row 49.

Working around edges of skirt, ch 1, sc in each sc down first back seam of skirt to last sc, 3 sc in last sc, continuing across bottom, work 24 sc evenly spaced up to high point in front, sc in in center st of high point, work 24 sc evenly spaced across bottom to other back seam, working up second back seam, 3 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across, (total of 141 sts), turn, sl st in next 10 sts ( back opening), carefully matching up sts of back seam, sc back seam together (this will make for a sturdier seam than sewing as the skirt will be stretched to get over hips of doll).  Fasten off.

Waistband

Row 1:  Join orange in first st at back left opening, sc 40 evenly spaced across, turn.  (40 sc)

Row 2:  [sc in first (next) 2 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts] across, turn.  (30 sc)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, DO NOT TURN.  (30 sc)

Placket (overlap to sew snap to)

Row 1:  Ch 1, work 25 sc evenly spaced around back opening, turn.  (25 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in each st around, turn.  (25 sc)

Row 3:  Repeat row 2.  Fasten off.

Ruffle:  Join yellow with sl st in any st at bottom of skirt, ch 4 (counts as first tr), 2 tr in same st as joining, 3 tr in each st around, join to top of beg ch 4.  Fasten off.

Finishing

Sew snap to back opening.




Sunday, October 23, 2011

White Shell Hat

And here is the pattern for the hat.  Sorry the picture is a little blurry.  An option I would like to do for this hat is to find some 1/4th inch ribbon to band around the hat or maybe add some tiny flowers.  I just haven't been able to find any in the right color.



Materials

Size 10 thread in white
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
1/4th inch pink ribbon (optional)
tiny pink or white ribbon roses (optional)

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Shell = (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in st indicated

Beg Shell = (sl st, ch 2, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in st indicated

NOTE:  When working in rounds I like to turn at the end of each round to make seam straight.

Round 1:  With white, ch 6, being careful not to twist ch, join to first ch forming a circle, 6 sc in ring, join to first sc, turn.  (6 sc)

Round 2:  Ch 1, 2 sc in ea st, join to beg st, turn. (12 sc)

Round 3:  Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around, join to beg st, turn.  (18 sc)

Round 4:  Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to beg st, turn.  (24 sc)

Round 5:  Ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to beg st, turn.  (30 sc)

Round 6:  Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to beg st, turn.  (36 sc)

Round 7:  Ch 1, [sc in first (next) st, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts] around, join to beg st, turn. (6 sc, 6 shells)

Round 8:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, [sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] around, join to beg st, turn.  (6 sc, 6 shells)

Rounds 9-10:  Repeat round 8.

Round 11: Sl st up to first ch 2 sp,  beg shell in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, [shell in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] around,join to beg st, turn.  (12 shells)

Rounds 12-13:  Sl st up to first ch 2 sp, beg shell in first ch 2 sp, [shell in next ch 2 sp] around, turn. 

Round 14:  Ch 1, sc in first 2 dc, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc, [sc in next 2 dc, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc] around, join to beg st.  Fasten off. 

Finishing

Trim hat in desired fashion.

Saturday, October 22, 2011

White Shell Purse

Well, I just looked at the date of my last post and was shocked to find that it has been a whole month since I last posted.  Wow!!  I can't believe it has been that long.  So much for my "post every week" goal.  Oh well!  Here is the pattern for the shell purse.  I am not finished with the shorts/beach towel/beach bag that I am doing for this set as I want to get a Halloween dress out before it actually is Halloween.



Sorry for the blurry picture.  A photographer I am not!!

Materials

Size 10 thread in white
One 1/8" pink button or button to fit through buttonhole
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Shell = (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in stitch indicated

Purse body

Row 1:  With white, ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.  (12 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, [sc in next st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st] across, turn.   (3 sc, 3 shells)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, [sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] across, turn.  (3 sc, 3 shells)

Rows 4-?:  Repeat row 3 until piece measure approximately 2 1/2 inches long.

Last row of purse body:  Ch 1, 2 sc in first ch 2 sp, 2 sc in next sc, [2 sc in next ch 2 sp, 2 sc in next sc] across, turn.  (12 sc)

Flap

Row 1:  Ch 1, [sc in first (next) st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st] across, turn. (3 sc, 3 shells)

Row 2:  Sl st in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, sl st in next ch 2 sp, skip last sc, turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, sl st in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc (ch 2 sp will be buttonhole), sl st in next ch 2 sp, sk last st.  Fasten off.

Edging

Starting at corner where flap meets purse body, join white with sl st, ch 1, sc in same st as joining, work 3 sc up to ch 2 buttonhole space, work 3 sc in ch 2 buttonhole sp, work 4 sc down other side of flap, work 20 sc evenly spaced down side of purse in ends of rows, work 12 sc across row 1, work 20 sc evenly spaced down other side of purse in ends of rows, join to first sc.  Fasten off.

Sew side seams of purse together folding flap over.

Handle

With white, ch 50, sc in back ridge of 2nd ch from hook and in back ridge of each ch across.  Fasten off.  Tack each handle end to purse securely. 

Finishing

Sew button to opposite side of button hole.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

White Shell Swimsuit

Here is my version of a swimsuit for Barbie.  I think bikini's have been done to the Nth degree for her, so I decided against doing another one.  This suit is more modest but still cute.






Materials

Size 10 thread in white
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
3 sew on snaps

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Note:

Sc next 2 sts tog
= a dec worked as follows.  Insert hook in st indicated, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st indicated, pull up loop (3 loops on hook),  yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Shell = (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in st indicated


Directions for Top

Row 1:  Starting above bust, with white, ch 41, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn.  (40 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, [sc in next st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st] across, turn.  (10 sc, 10 shells)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, [sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] across, turn.  (10 shells, 10 sc)

Row 4:  Repeat row 3.

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog, sc in next ch 2 sp, sc next 2 sts tog, sk next sc, [sc next 2 sts tog, sc in next ch 2 sp, sc next 2 sts tog, sk next sc] across, only sc in last sc instead of sk, turn.  (31 sc)

Row 6:  Working in FRONT LOOPS only, ch 1, sc in first st, sk next st, shell in next st, [sk next st, sc in next st, sk next st, shell in next st] across, turn.  (8 sc, 8 shells)

Row 7:  Ch 1, sc in first 2 dc, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc, [sk next sc, sc in next 2 dc, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc] across.  Fasten off. 

Finishing

Sew 2 snaps to back opening.



Directions for Bottom

Row 1:  Starting at hips, with white, ch 37, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.  (36 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, [sc in next st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st] across, turn.  (9 sc, 9 shells)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, [sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] across, turn.  (9 sc, 9 shells)

Row 4:  Repeat row 3.

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc first 2 dc, sk next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc, [sc in next sc, sc in next 2 dc, sk next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc], turn.  (45 sc)

Row 6:  Working in FRONT LOOPS only, ch 1, sc in first st, [sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, sc in next st] across, turn.  (12 sc, 11 shells)

Row 7:  Ch 1, sk first sc, [sc in next 2 dc, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc, sk next sc].  Fasten off.

Underpanty

Row 1:  Working behind ruffle in BACK LOOPS of row 5, sk first 19 sts, join with sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, leave remaining sts unworked, turn.  (7 sc)

Rows 2-12:  Ch 1, sc in each st across.  Fasten off leaving a long tail.  (7 sc)

Here is the TRICKY PART...lol

Using long tail, sew end of underpanty to BACK LOOPS of row 5, sewing 4 of the sts to right back and  4 sts to left back, overlapping one st.

Finishing

Sew one snap to back opening.




Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Pink Shell Top

Here is the pattern for the pink shell top.  Row 8 is an an eyelet row, so I went ahead and crocheted chains to weave through it.  You could also use some 1/4th" ribbon or just leave top as is.



Materials

Size 10 thread in French Rose
Size 10 thread in White (optional)
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
3 sew on snaps

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Note

Sc next 2 sts tog = a dec worked as follows.  Insert hook in st indicated, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st indicated, pull up loop (3 loops on hook),  yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Shell = (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in st indicated

Row 1:  Starting above bust, with French Rose, ch 41, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn.  (40 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, [sc in next st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st] across, turn.  (10 sc, 10 shells)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, [sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] across, turn.  (10 shells, 10 sc)

Rows 4-5:  Repeat row 3.

Row 6:  Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog, sc in next ch 2 sp, sc next 2 sts tog, sk next sc, [sc next 2 sts tog, sc in next ch 2 sp, sc next 2 sts tog, sk next sc] across, only sc in last sc instead of sk, turn.  (31 sc)

Row 7:  Ch 1, sc in ea st across, turn.  (31 sc)

Row 8:  (Eyelet row)  Ch 1, sc in first st, [ch 2, sk next st, sc in next] across, turn.  (15 ch 2 spaces)

Row 9:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, [shell in next ch 2 sp, sc in next ch 2 sp] across, turn.  (8 sc, 7 shells)

Row 10:  Ch 1, shell in first sc, [sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] across, turn.  (8 shells, 7 sc)

Row 11:   Repeat row 9.

Row 12:  Repeat row 10.

Row 13:  Ch 1, sc in first 2 dc, 3 sc in ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc, [sk next sc, sc in next 2 dc, 3 sc in ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc] across.  Fasten off.

Tie (optional)

Make 2:  Ch 50 with white.  Fasten off.  Tie one ch to end of row 8 on left back and one to end of row 8 on right back.  Weave each ch so they meet in center front.  Tie in bow.

Finishing

Sew 3 snaps evenly spaced down back of top.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Pink Shell Skirt

I am behind on my goals to post every week :-(  Oh well!  I am not done with the set that I plan on calling "Summer Stroll and Swim" set, but here is the pattern for the first piece.  It looks like a dress in the picture, but it is actually 2 pieces; a skirt and a top.  I like to do it that way, so there are more possibilities to mix-and-match pieces.  The whole set will include the pink top, the pink skirt, the hat, the purse, a pair of shorts, a bathing suit, a beach bag, and a beach towel.  Hopefully, I will get them posted this week. 



Materials

Size 10 thread in French Rose
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
One sew on snap

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Note:  First row or two may not seem to be long enough to overlap at back, but it will be when the shell rows are worked.

Shell = (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in st indicated

Row 1:  With French Rose, ch 41, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn.  (40 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, [sc in next st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st] across, turn.  (10 sc, 10 shells)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, [sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] across, turn.  (10 shells, 10 sc)

Rows 4-5:  Repeat row 3.

Round 6:  Ch 1, sc in first ch 2 sp, shell in next sc, [sc in next ch 2 sp, shell in next sc] across, join to first sc, turn.  (10 shells, 10 sc).

Rounds 7-desired length:  Repeat round 6. 

Last round:  Ch 1, sc in first two dc, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc, sk next sc, [sc in next 2 dc, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 dc, sk next sc] across to last sc, work sc in last sc instead of sk.  Fasten off.

Finishing

Sew snap to back opening.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Preview of next weeks outfit


I have decided to share a preview of next weekends outfit because I am so excited about how it's turning out so far.  I am not done with it, but I already love it and I just love this color of pink. 

Silly cat!  She closes her eyes just like I do when my picture is taken...lol















Chocolate Colored Slacks

These slacks are the last piece in my "Chocolate Bubblegum" collection.  I had the most trouble with these as I have not had much experience crocheting Barbie pants.  I made the crotch piece completely separate and sewed it to the pants because I could not figure out how to do it in one piece.  I did not want to just sew the front and back together because I do not like the bunching and pulling look that that creates.  Also, you can see (slightly) where the legs are started, but only when the pants are off the doll.  On the doll they look pretty darn good :-)


Materials

Size 10 thread in brown
Size 10 thread in pink
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
one sew on snap

Gauge

10 sc = one inch, 10 sc rows= 1 inch

Directions


Rows 1-9:  Follow first 9 rows of brown skirt with pink ruffle.  Fasten off.

Crotch Piece

Row 10:  With brown, ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.  (4 sc)

Row 11:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (4 sc)

Rows 12-14:  Repeat row 2.  Fasten off.

Sew on end of crotch to 4 center front stitches and sew other end of crotch to 4 center back stitches.

Note:  There should be 21 stitches remaining on either side of crotch where legs will be worked.

Round 1:  (First leg)  Join brown with sl st in end of middle row of crotch, ch 1, sc in same st as joining, dc in end of next row, sc in end of last row, dc in first st of row 9 of pants, (sc in next st, dc in next st) in next 20 sts, sc in end of next row of crotch, dc in end of remaining row of crotch, join to beg sc, turn.  (26 sts)

Note 1:  Turn at ends of rounds 1-33 of leg to keep to pattern.

Note 2:  Round 1 of leg may or may not keep to pattern of row 9.

Note 3:  When working rounds 34-37 you can either fasten off each round or you can carry the thread from round to round to avoid having to weave in ends.  If you carry the thread, then do not turn at the ends of rounds 34-37.  Or you can just skip the stripes and keep to the sc, dc pattern.

Round 2:  Ch 1, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] around, join to beg sc, turn.  (26 sts)

Rounds 3-33:  Repeat round 2.  Fasten off at end of round 33.

Round 34:  Join pink with sc in any st, sc in each st around, join to first sc. (26 sc)  Fasten off or do not turn and carry thread.

Round 35:  Join brown with sl st in any st, ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, join to top of beg ch 2.  (26 dc)  Fasten off or do not turn and carry the thread.

Round 36:  Repeat round 34.

Round 37:  Repeat round 35.

Round 38:  (Ruffle) Join pink with sl st in any st, ch 4, 4 tr in same st as joining, sk next st, [5 tr in next st, sk next st] around, join to top of beg ch 4.  Fasten off.

Repeat for other leg.

Sew snap to back opening.

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Chocolate Jacket with Pink Ruffle

This is a cute jacket to change the look of any of the previous outfits.  When I was making the jacket I was fitting it to the naked Barbie, forgetting that it would have to go over another item of clothing, so it is a bit tight right under the bust. It can still be buttoned, I just didn't do it for the pictures cuz my fingers have a hard time with those teeny, tiny buttons.





Materials

Size 10 thread in brown
Size 10 thread in pink
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
3 4mm brown buttons

Gauge 

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Row 1:  Beg at bottom of jacket, with brown, ch 51, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (50 sc)

Rows 2-11:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (50 sc)

Row 12:  Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc last 2 sts tog, turn.  (48 sc)

Rows 13-17:  Repeat row 12. (38 sc by end of row 17).

Rows 18-20:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (38 sc)

Row 21:  (Working first shoulder) Ch 1, sc in first 5 sts, turn. (5 sc)

Rows 22-30:  Repeat row 21.  Fasten off, leaving long end to sew shoulder seam.

Row 21:  (Back)  Sk next 5 sts of row 20 (armhole), join brown with sc in next st, sc in next 17 sts, sk last 10 sts, turn.  (18 sc)

Rows 22-30:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (18 sc)  Fasten off at end of row 30.

Second Shoulder:  Work same as first shoulder.  You will have to flip this piece over and join brown with sl st in first sc on opposite side of row 20. 

Sleeves

Round 1:  Join brown with sc in center st of underarm, sc 20 sts evenly spaced around armhole (you may have to sc some sts tog to accomplish this), join to first sc, turn.  (20 sc)

Rounds 2-28:  Ch 1, sc in each st around, join to first sc, turn. (20 sc)  Fasten off at end of round 28.

Round 29:  Join pink with st st in any st, ch 4, 4 tr in same st, sk next st, [5 tr in next st, sk next st] around, join to top of beg ch 4.  Fasten off.

Finishing

1:  Carefully matching sts of back and front together, sew shoulder seams.

2:  Edging and buttonholes: 

Row 1: Starting in lower right corner of jacket, join brown with sc, work approximately 70 sc evenly spaced around opening of jacket, turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in each st around to last 9 sts, [ch 2, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts (buttonhole made)] 3 times.  Fasten off. (3 buttonholes made)

3:  Ruffle: 

Row 1:  Beg at lower left front, join pink with st st in corner sc, ch 4, 4 tr in same sc, [sk next st, 5 tr in next st] across.  Fasten off.  (26 tr clusters made)

4:  Sew 3 buttons opposite buttonholes.





Friday, September 2, 2011

Chocolate Strapless Top

This is a real cute and easy top, but for some reason it ended up overlapping a lot in the back.  I was too lazy to rewrite the pattern, so I just sewed the snaps about a quarter of an inch away from the edge in the back and it turned out good enough.  I like the look of this top with the brown skirt because it looks like a one piece dress when paired together. 



Materials

Size 10 thread in brown
Size 10 thread in pink
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
3 sew on snaps

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch, 10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions


Row 1:  Beg at waist, with brown, ch 41, sc in first ch, dc in next ch, [sc in next ch, dc in next ch] across, join pink in last st, fasten off brown, turn. (40 sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, join brown in last stitch, fasten off pink, turn.  (40 sc)

Row 3:  Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st across, join pink in last st, fasten off brown, turn (40 dc).

Row 4:  Repeat row 2.

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, [sc in next st, dc in next st] across, turn.  (40 sts)

Row 6:  Ch 1, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc], turn.  (40 sts)

Rows 7-10:  Repeat row 6.

Row 11:  Ch 1, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 7 times, sk next dc, 7 tr in next sc, sk next dc, sc in next 2 sts, sk next sc, 7 tr in next dc, sk next sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 8 times, turn.

Row 12:  Ch 1, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 7 times, [dc in next tr] 7 times, sc next 2 sc tog, [dc in next tr] 7 times, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 8 times, join pink in last st, fasten off brown, turn.

Row 13:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.  (47 sc)

Row 14:  Ch 2, sl st in first sc, [ch 2, sl st in next sc] across.  Fasten off.

Finishing

Sew 3 snaps evenly spaced down back opening.






Chocolate Skirt with Pink Ruffle

This is a pretty simple skirt to make.  You can do what I did with the two pink stripes or you could leave those out to reduce having to fasten off and weave in ends.  Or you can try to carry the yarn.  It looks a little messy on the inside but you don't have to deal with those pesky ends....lol

Materials

Size 10 thread in brown
Size 10 thread in pink
one sew on snap
Size 6 (1.8  mm) steel hook

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch,10 sc rows = 1 inch

Directions

Row 1:  Beg at hips, with brown, ch 41, sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, [sc in next ch, dc in next ch] across, turn.  (40 sts)

Rows 2-3:  Ch 1, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] across, turn.  (40 sts)

Row 4:  Ch 1, [(sc in first dc, dc in next sc) 3 times, (sc, dc) in next dc, (sc, dc) in next sc] across, turn.  (50 sts)

Row 5:  Repeat row 2. (50 sts)

Rounds 6-15:  Working in rounds, ch 1, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] around, join to beg sc.  TURN AT ENDS OF ROUNDS to continue in pattern.  Fasten off at end of round 15.

Round 16:  Join pink with sc in any st, sc in each st around, join to beg sc.  Fasten off.  (50 sc)

Round 17:  Join brown with sl st in any st, ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, join in top of beg ch 2.  Fasten off.  (50 dc)

Rounds 18 & 19:  Repeat  rounds 16 & 17 once more.

Round 20:  Join pink with sl st in any stitch, ch 4, 4 tr in same st as joining, sk next st, [5 tr in next st, sk next st] around, join in top of beg ch 4.  Fasten off. 

Finishing

Sew snap to back opening.




Thursday, September 1, 2011

Pink Ruffled Short Skirt


This skirt is pretty quick and easy to do.  In order to avoid excessive fastening off and weaving in of ends, I worked this piece flat and sewed the back seam instead of working in rounds. 


Materials

Size 10 pink cotton thread

Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook

one sew on snap

Gauge

10 sc=1 inch, 10 sc rows=1 inch.

Directions for Pink Ruffle Short Skirt


NOTE:  Ch 4 counts as first tr throughout pattern.

Row 1:  Beg at hips, with pink, ch 41, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (40 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (40 sc)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st]across to last st, sc in last st, turn. (53 sc)

Rows 4-7:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (53 sc)

Row 8:  Working this row in FRONT LOOPS ONLY, ch 4, 4 tr in first st, [sk next 2 sts, 5 tr in next st]across to last st, sk last st.  DO NOT TURN.  (18 tr clusters made)

Row 9:  Working in side of last tr made, work 3 sl sts, sl st in end of row 8, TURN NOW, working behind ruffle in BACK LOOPS of row 8, ch 4, tr in each st across, turn. (53 tr)

Row 10:  Working in FRONT LOOPS ONLY, ch 4, 4 tr in first st, [sk next 2 sts, 5 tr in next st]across.  DO NOT TURN.  (18 tr clusters made)

Rows 11-14:  Repeat rows 9 and 10 two more times or until desired length is achieved.  Fasten off leaving a long end to sew up back seam.

Finishing

Sew back seam leaving an opening big enough to skip skirt on doll.  I sewed only the ends of ruffles together and that seemed to work well enough.  Sew snap to back opening.

Here are some more explanatory pictures



Rows 1-7 should look like this on doll.  It should measure about 5 1/2" by 3/4".


Row 8 should be worked in front loops like this.  This is the first ruffle row.



Row 9 is worked behind row 8 in free loops of row 8.  First you will 3 sl sts in end of last st made and sl st in end of row 8 like so.




Now you will turn piece over and work behind ruffle in free loops of row 8.  Work tr in each  free loop st like this.  This is still row 9.




Now row 10 is worked in front loops of tr row like so.




Hope this helps :-)

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Pink Ruffle Sleeveless Top

  I love this top.  It can be paired with either of the two skirts or the pants and it can be with or without the jacket.  When paired with the pink ruffled skirt it looks like a one piece dress. 








Materials

Size 10 thread in pink
Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel hook
one sew on snap

Gauge

10 sc = 1 inch
10 sc rows = 1 inch


Pink Ruffled Sleeveless Top Directions

Row 1:  Beg right below bust, with pink, ch 35, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (34 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] across to last 4 sts, sc in last 4 sts, turn.  (40)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (40 sc)

Row 4:  Ch 1, sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] across to last 4 sts, sc in last 4 sts, turn.  (46 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (46 sc)

Rows 6 and 7: Repeat row 5.

Row 8: (Working first back) Ch 1, sc in first 10 sts, turn. (10 sc)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (10 sc)

Rows 10-15: Repeat row 9.  Fasten off.

Row 8: (Working first front) Sk next 4 sts of row 7 (armhole), join pink with sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, turn. (9 sc)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog, sc in last 7 sts, turn. (8 sc)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in first 6 sts, sc last 2 sts tog, turn. (7 sc)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog, sc in last 5 sts, turn. (6 sc)

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, sc last 2 sts tog, turn. (5 sc)

Row 13: Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog, sc in last 3 sts, turn. (4 sc)

Rows 14 and 15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (4 sc)  Fasten off, leaving a long end to sew shoulder seams.

For second front and second back, flip piece over and repeat first front and first back, joining pink with a sl st on opposite side of row 7.

LACE

Row 1:  Working on opposite side of starting ch with right side facing you, join pink with sc in first ch, sc in each ch across, turn. (34 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st]across to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, turn. (42 sc)

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (42 sc)

Row 4:  Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 3, sk next st, sc in next st, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next st]across to last st, sk last st, turn. (20 ch 3 spaces)

Row 5:  Ch 5, dc in first ch sp, sc in next ch sp, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch sp, sc in next ch sp]across, turn. (10 v-stitches, 10 sc made)

Row 6:  Ch 5, dc in first sc, sc in next ch 2 sp of v-stitch, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in next sc, sc in next ch 2 sp of v-stitch]across, turn. (10 v-stitches, 10 sc made)

Rows 7-10:  Repeat row 6.

Row 11:  Sl st in first ch sp, ch 4, 4 tr in same sp, 5 tr in next sc, [5 tr in next ch 2 sp of v-stitch, 5 tr in next sc] across to last ch sp, tr in last ch sp. (20 5 tr clusters made)  Fasten off.

FINISHING

1.  Carefully matching stitches of front and back together, sew shoulder seams.

2.  For neckline, starting at end of row one of left back, join pink with sc, working in ends of rows of left back, continuing across top of left back, around neckline, across top right back and down ends of rows to row one of right back, work approx. 66 sc evenly spaced making sure to work 3 sc in each corner.  It doesn't matter if you do more or less, it is just for finishing and looking nice.  Fasten off.

3.  For armholes, starting at center of underarm, join pink with sc, work approx. 22 sc evenly spaced around, join to first sc.  Again, it doesn't matter if you have a couple more or whatever, just so it looks nice and finished.  Fasten off.

4.  Sew 3 snaps evenly spaced down back to lace part of blouse.  I left the rest open or you can try to sew snaps on the lace part also.